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Friday, November 20, 2020

Gold Standard: Five New Gold Watches From Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Grand Seiko And TAG Heuer - Forbes

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After a three-year flush of almost nothing but steel sports luxury watches, a warm glow is making a return to the watch industry. The following five new 18k gold watches from Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Grand Seiko and TAG Heuer were introduced in the second half of 2020, and while some of them might have been in the pipeline for awhile, their release indicates a glimmer of hope in a Covid-ridden world.

Gold was the material of choice for watches up until the 1990s, when stainless steel began to make its mark as the material of choice for modern watches. Today’s gold is different, though, because most of the top brands have created proprietary alloys, starting with Rolex, which introduced its everose blend in 2005. Most of the new gold alloys are hardened with metals from the platinum group, resulting in gold that is less likely to fade or patinate, and less susceptible to nicks and scratches.

TAG Heuer announced today it will open three new monobrand boutiques in partnership with Watches of Switzerland, and at the same time launched a spectacular 18k rose gold Carrera sports watch to celebrate the 88th birthday of Jack Heuer, great-grandson of the brand’s founder and the former CEO of TAG Heuer. He is currently honorary chairman. The watch was inspired by Jack’s favorite Heuer model from the 1960s, with a similar design. The rotor on the caseback is inscribed with Jack’s motto “Time never stops, why should we?”

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The Rolex Sky-Dweller, originally launched in 2012, is newly minted this year in 18k yellow gold, including Rolex’s signature fluted bezel, which looks especially dazzling in gold. The Sky-Dweller is Rolex’s first non-sports watch to be fitted with the Oysterflex bracelet, already used on the Daytona and Submariner. The movement, Rolex 9001, is one of the most complex calibers created by the brand, with a 72-hour power reserve, exceptional shock resistance and accuracy.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is reminiscent of the days when all high complications were gold or platinum, out of respect for the craftsmanship that goes into making them. The tourbillon is a specialty for Jaeger-LeCoultre, including its complex gyrotourbillon series with spherical hairsprings. This one, with the new automatic caliber 983, is a tourbillon with jumping date and moon phase. The case is made of Le Grand Rose gold, a proprietary alloy with a touch of palladium to make it corrosion and fade resistant.

The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary is a masterpiece of vintage minimalism, inspired by the first Grand Seiko watch from 1960. It also celebrates the company’s foundation in 1881. An “S” trademark engraved on a gold plate set into the movement’s bridge, which can be seen through the open caseback. It has a 72 hour power reserve and an accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. The watch is a limited edition of 350, available in Grand Seiko boutique only starting January 2021.

The case and textured gold bracelet of the new Omega Tresor Mesh is made of 18k Moonshine gold, a proprietary gold that is alloyed with a shot of palladium to make it stronger, fade-resistant and a little paler (and less aggressive) than traditional yellow gold. The bezel/extended lugs are set with 38 diamonds, and dial on the model shown is paved with 768 diamonds. The movement is quartz.

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November 21, 2020 at 12:29AM
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Gold Standard: Five New Gold Watches From Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Grand Seiko And TAG Heuer - Forbes

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